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Interesting things to do in Granada

The biggest tourist attraction in Granada is without a doubt the world famous Heritage Site – The Alhambra Palace. Every year millions of tourist pass through the gates of this great palace.

Entrance to the Alhambra Palace

Whilst the Alhambra is the most noteworthy tourist attraction in Granada, there are a few other interesting things to do and places to see in Granada.

Wander around in “mini Morrocco”

Close to the Plaza Nuevo in the center of the city you will find Alcaiceria or as some call it “mini Morrocco”. It stretches from the Plaza Nuevo

Plaza Nuevo – Granada

to the historic Elvira gate at the foot of the Albaicin district.

Elvira Gate in the background

Before the Reconquesta ( when the Christians reconquered Spain) this area was home to the biggest Grand Bazaar or market in Granada. Originally the market was known for selling silk and spices. Today it has maintained its Moorish appearance but is much smaller and sells mainly souvenirs.

Alcaiceria souks

Wandering around these narrow streets and souk style shops you can still feel the strong Moorish/Arab ties.

Narrow streets of Alcaiceria

Many of the shops sell similar merchandise but if you take your time and look closer you may still find some exotic items.

You can purchase glass lamps, leathers good, ceramics, jewellery and spices.

Leather bags including the one I bought 🙂

Breath in the fragrances of Granada

Housed in a 17th century Rennaisance Palace, on your walk to the Morrocan souks, you will find the Patio de los Perfumes http://en.patiodelosperfumes.com/home.html

Patio de los Parfumes

This unique perfumery consists of a lovely courtyard garden, a retail store for spa items (creams, aromatherapy oils, scented reeds, etc.), perfumes, and a perfume museum. In the patio area you can enjoy a selection of teas and fruit juices while you relax and breath in the fragrances drifting in the air.

Courtyard patio inside the perfumery

In the perfume museum, located in the basement area, you will discover the art of perfume manufacture, see some of the most ancient perfume bottles and immerse yourself in an olfactory experience of note.

Some products
Perfume Museum

Explore spice and tea heaven

Close to the Granada Cathedral, we stumbled across Las Pasiegas square which has one of Granada’s most famous spice and tea shops called Medievo. https://medievogranada.com/

Medievo – a spice sensation

In and around this area there are various vendors selling a selection of teas, spices, dried fruits and herbs.

You can also find the best Spanish paprika and well packed saffron at reasonable prices.

Be mesmerised by buskers and street performers

Musicians from all over the world are drawn to Granada because of its bubbling music scene. The many plaza’s around Granada are filled with buskers and street performers.

From Flamenco dancers to acoustic guitarist and even full-on brass bands, you will be fascinated and enchanted at every corner.

Plaza Larga in the Albaicin district

The most popular site for buskers to perform is the Carrero del Darro, a long cobbled street that runs parallel to the river below the Plaza Nuevo and the foot of the Alhambra palace.

It’s a romantic street with medieval style bridges crossing the river. On these bridges you will find street performers and buskers doing what they do best.

These are just a few of the interesting things to do on your visit to Granada.

Read more about my experience in the Old Arab Quarters (Albaicin) here https://withnarriman.travel.blog/2019/05/17/the-old-arab-quarters-grand-mosque-of-granada/

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Granada – where eating halaal is easy

Travelling can be exciting and adventurous but it can also be challenging at times. Especially when it comes to eating.

If you have special dietary requirements like vegan, vegetarian, kosher or halaal, you have to do some research before-hand to ensure that you familiarise yourself with at least 2 to 3 restaurants in the city you will be visiting.

As a Muslim, my first choice is always to eat strictly halaal food. Coming from a country where we have a reliable and trustworthy Halaal Trust, we are spoilt for choice to eat at restaurants that cater for our needs.

When travelling, I’m not always sure where I will find a good restaurant serving halaal food. Breakfast is normally easy, because one can get away with cereal, breads and preservatives with a good helping of fruit and yoghurt. Lunch time though, one tends to want to eat something a bit more substantial and filling.

On our trip to Spain, finding a halaal restaurant in Madrid city centre wasn’t easy, so we opted to eat fish or seafood meals for lunch. Closer to the outskirts of Madrid we found a Pakistani restaurant serving authentic curries and naan roti’s. It was a perfect eat out restaurant for the one night we stayed over in the capital.

In the South of Spain, where the Muslim influence is more prevalent, we were fortunate to find some good halaal restaurants.

Both Cordoba and Granada have enough options to choose from. In this blog I’ll tell you about the two restaurants we visited in Granada.

Swarma King (Falafel & Kebaap)

The restaurant is Turkish and is fully halaal. Their signature dish is obviously falafels but they basically make any and all take-away and sit down type meals. It is located close to the Plaza Nuevo (New Plaza which is actually the oldest square in Granada ) so you will not miss it if you are walking in or around this area.

We opted for the chicken and chips meal which was quite a substantial portion. Had we known that the portions would be as big, we probably would have opted for one portion to share instead of the two.

If spicy and tasty Mediterranean Cajun style chicken is your favorite then this restaurant will not disappoint. The cost is reasonable for the portion sizes. I think we paid 5.50 euros per meal which included a soda. For the same price you could also get a Pita filled with falafel, chips and salad and a coke.

They also sell burgers and chips, paella dishes, vegetable food with basmati rice and a variety of other dishes ranging from about 3 Euros to 10 euros.

Shawarma King is a good place to have lunch. It has a casual café style setting. If you are looking for a bit more fancy, then I suggest you cross the road to it’s sister restaurant called ElTaj Halal Shawarma King

ElTaj Halal Shawarma King

As you enter this restaurant you are mesmerised by the beautiful wooden carved Morroccan style entrance complete with colourfully covered ottomans on either side. The decor is warm and cosy and the atmosphere is welcoming and friendly.

The owners, who are Syrian, have opted to create a Arabian experience in the middle of this busy street . You are transported to a time and place across the oceans in Africa. A trip from Granada to Morrocco will take you less than half a day by ferry and train.

Granada has retained much of it’s Moorish style in architecture, decor and eating establishments.

The ElTaj Shawarma King has two levels. downstairs are fitted with plenty of wooden chairs and tables. As you make your way upstairs you will find on one side the restaurant a makeshift Bedouin Morrocan style tent area where you can enjoy some desserts and hookah, if that’s your fancy.

On the other side of the restaurant, there are the most beautifully carved wooden chairs and tables with bay style windows looking out into the street below.

The walls are lined with the most intriguing and eye-catching paintings of Moorish ladies draped in headscarves.

or serving the tea traditional Arab style.

We opted to sit upstairs and enjoy this Arabian experience while having our meal. The menu is vast and flavourful. Catering to your every need, whether it be a light quick meal of kebaab or wraps or whether it be a hearty warm curry.

Prices are reasonable considering that it’s a sit down restaurant. We were tempted to try some of their desserts but decided against it because once again the meal size was substantial and filling.

I would recommend both of these restaurants when travelling to Granada, especially if you looking for tasty halaal food.

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The old Arab Quarters – Grand Mosque of Granada

The highlight of my travel to Spain was undoubtedly my visit to the Mezquita Mayor de Granada ( The Grand Mosque of Granada) to perform the Friday prayer.

Inside the Grande Mosque of Granada

To understand the significance of this mosque you have to understand the history of the Muslims in Spain and particularly in Granada.

In 1492, the last Muslim leader of the Iberian Peninsula, Emir Muhammed X1 of Granada (known as “Boabdil” to the Spanish) surrendered control to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Castille, after the last battle of the Granada war.

By this time most of Spain had already been re-conquered by the Christians and Granada was one of the last cities to fall.

After the fall of Granada, the Jews and Muslims were given a short period of time to either accept Christianity or be driven out of Spain. By 1502 the Catholic monarch had made the practice of Islam illegal in Spain. There were 137 mosques in the city of Granada, all of them were demolished and converted into churches.

For 500 years the Muslim call to prayer could no longer be heard in Granada, or the rest of Spain. Then in 2003, the Muslims of Granada finally won their 22 year appeal with the city authorities and were granted permission to start building a new mosque.

Standing in the shadow of the Alhambra, high up in the Albaicin Quarters, the Grand Mosque of Granada opened its doors in July 2003. It heralded a new beginning for the Spanish Muslim of Granada.

We had planned our trip so that we could be in Granada on Friday in order to make the Jumuah (Friday Congregational) Prayer at this mosque. We visited the Albaicin Quarters on the Thursday for sight-seeing, by bus, but were not able to find the mosque.

We decided that a walk would probably be best on the Friday morning and started navigating our way from our hotel towards the Albaicin Quarters after a late morning breakfast.

The Albaicin is the old Arab Quarters in Granada.

It is situated between the hill of Alhambra and the Sacromente, an authentic gypsy neighbourhood where the Flamenco dance originated.

No-where in Spain did I feel more Muslim influence than in the Albaicin Quarters. Even though the Muslims where banished after the re-conquest of Spain, it seems that this old Arab quarters is still primarily inhabited by Muslims.

With is narrow streets, plenty of squares (plazas) and small clean houses, this area is a must do by foot.

Make sure to wear comfortable walking shoes and take a bottle of water with to hydrate. The entire neighbourhood is situated on a hill so there is a bit of a climb to get to the Grand Mosque of Granada.

We were planning to reach the Mosque just after midday so that we could be in time for the Friday Sermon. Armed only with a picture of the Minaret, which I printed from google pics, we walked in the direction that we thought would be its location.

The Albaicin is not a very large neighbourhood, but there are endless narrow streets with similar looking white-washed houses and buildings. Its easy to get lost in this neighbourhood. We ended up at a place which we thought was the Mosque only to find that it was deserted.

The time was now pushing closer to 12.30 and there was still no sign of the Grand Mosque. We were also a bit hot and our legs were feeling the heaviness of the climb. I felt anxious about missing the Friday prayer. Surely, we should hear the call to prayer ring out through the neighbourhood soon?

We kept walking, and ten minutes later, still no call to prayer but fortunately we found two young European tourists who were navigating their way around with a map. They kindly allowed us to check on their map and confirmed that the Mosque was near the San Nicholas Plaza.

Now we had more information to work with. The next passer-by we stopped directed us towards the San Nicholas Plaza and as we reached the top of the road the Plaza appeared in sight. It was easy from here to find the Mosque but still no call to prayer at 1pm?

Entering the mosque precinct we were pleased and surprised to hear that the Friday prayer only starts at around 2pm when most Muslims are able to leave their work place and make their way to the Mosque. Suddenly the pressure was off and we could enjoy the experience of discovering the many facets of this Mosque.

The Mosque complex comprises of three main areas, the garden, the prayer hall and the Centre of Islamic Studies.

The Garden

Picture a courtyard with two classic mosaic covered fountains,

surrounded with lush green trees,

looking out over the hill towards the majestic Alhambra Palace.

The garden is filled with many different plant and tree species with the most popular being the pomegranate tree. The Spanish word for this fruit is Granada so it has become a symbol for the city. Everywhere you go in Granada the pomegranate tree is found and here in the garden at The Grande Mosque of Granada it stands tall enough for you to find some shade.

The view from the Mosque garden is spectacular during the day with the backdrop of the Alhambra Palace. I’m sure it must be breath- taking as the sunsets over the Sierra Nevada mountains at night.

Note: I will be doing a separate blog about The Alhambra Palace

The Prayer Hall

The prayer niche or the Mihrab of the Grand Mosque of Granada is a very good replica of the famous mihrab of the Mezquita of Cordoba.

The multi-coloured marble tiles are identical to those of the Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem and the great “Qibla” windows are replicas from the Blue Mosque of Istanbul. The Minaret from which the call to prayer is made five times a day is designed and constructed in the original Albaicin style.

When you look out from the ladies section of the Mosque area you will be looking at the Sacromente – gypsy neighbourhood on the hill.

The Centre of Islamic Studies

After the Friday prayers were completed, we were invited to join the congregation to share lunch in the Islamic Centre. The centre is on the lower floor and comprises a library, conference room and exhibition room.

A scrumptious but simple Morrocan meal was presented in huge plates and the women gathered in a separate area to the men to share in this mouth-watering feast.

Such a wonderful experience to share a meal with the local community of the Albaicin neighbourhood.

If you ever find yourself in the city of Granada, be sure include a visit to this neighbourhood. As you wander around these streets you will stumble across so many gems and look out points where you can see breath-taking views of the city.

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Fun things to do in Cordoba

On your visit to Spain be sure to include a few days in the Andalucia territory in the South. This is where you will be able to see first hand the remnants of a time when Muslims, Christians and Jews lived in harmony and peace in small cities like Cordoba and Granada.

White washed houses in the Juderia

I visited Cordoba in September 2017. Here are some fun things to do while visiting Cordoba:

See the city on a bicycle

If you are the adventurous type and like to see more than the usual guided tour on the Red Hop on Hop off Bus, then why not try a bicycle ride. The city centre of Cordoba is compact, making it easy to complete a tour of the city and its outskirts within a few hours by bicycle. We rented bicycles at a rental shop not far from our hotel in Cordoba.

On our bicycles at the Plaza de la Corredela

On our scenic ride we stumbled upon this huge model aeroplane on the outskirts of the town.

Somewhere on the outskirts of Cordoba

As we looked across the field we saw this breath-taking view of the Grand Mosque of Cordoba – La Mezquita.

Across the field the magnificent Le Mezquita rises

What better way to cross the famous Roman Bridge than by bike while stopping to look back and take in the back drop of the Mosque- Cathedral. A memory captured in the heart and mind, and if you lucky to have someone with you, in a picture as well.

Speaking about Roman Bridges, another must do I recommend.

Take a night walk across the Roman Bridge

Built in the first century by the Roman’s and rebuilt a few times, most of the current structures that remain of the Roman Bridge dates back to the Moorish reconstruction in the eighth century. The bridge is best seen during the day to fully comprehend it’s structural magnificence.

The Roman Bridge – Cordoba

But your visit would be incomplete without a romantic night stroll across the bridge. With the river glistening in the night sky and the Mezquita lit up in the background, the walk across this bridge sets the tone and mood for a very romantic evening.

The Roman Bridge at night (with Le Mezquita at the far end)

Flamenco Dancing & Dining

If you ask some of the locals in Madrid, where is the best place to see a Flamenco show, they will tell you that authentic Flamenco dancing can only be seen in the South of Spain, where the dance originated.

Flamenco dancing at Patio de la Juderia Restaurant

The Flamenco is not so much about the dance but more about the passion and emotion which plays itself out in an energetic movement of hips, clicking of castanets, clapping of hands and stamping of feet. Add to this the music, the strumming of the guitar and some powerful and demanding singing and you are witnessing an art form which dates back centuries and was perfected by the Gypsies of Andalucia.

Flamenco dancing is passionate and emotionally charged

In the area surrounding the Mezquita, you will find a variety of restaurants offering a Flamenco show with their evening dinner. We were told to make a reservation rather than just pitch up, since these restaurants get booked up a day or two in advance.

I decided to play dress up and went to dinner in my custom-made Spanish outfit matched with my newly bought hat. To experience authentic Flamenco dance while enjoying a delicious meal try this restaurant https://patiodelajuderia.com/wp/

My Spanish dress up for dinner

What a night to remember. The passion and energy with which the dancers move, leaves one feeling breathless and emotionally charged.

Dinner at Patio De la Juderia Restaurant

Wander the Juderia

With it’s narrow cobbled streets and its white-washed buildings the old Jewish Quarters called the Juderia is best explored by foot. A long time ago, the city of Cordoba was called the city of three cultures because of the harmonious nature of the relationships between Muslims, Christians and Jews who lived side by side in this little city.

Sunrise in the Juderia

Today most of the Jews and Muslims have left Cordoba. The streets referred to as the Juderia is where the Jewish people once lived and remains a beautiful and attractive part of Cordoba. You will be charmed by the picturesque streets filled with flower-covered walls and patios.

Take a pic at the Calleja de las Flores

While walking around the Juderia, be sure to look out for this street – Calleja de la Flores – the street of flowers. . You may be confused by the many similar streets in the area but do not despair.

A good landmark to keep in mind is that you will be able to see the Minaret of the Mezquita peeping through in the background. Another is ofcourse the blue flower pots hanging down the walls on either side filled with brightly coloured flowers.

There are many tourist wanting to take their perfect Instagram pic in this street so timing is important if you want to take a good pic.

One other “must see” while in Cordoba is ofcourse a visit to La Mezquita, the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba. I’ve written a complete blog on my visit. You can read it here: https://withnarriman.travel.blog/2019/05/06/fall-in-love-with-cordoba-spain/

If you are enjoying my blog posts and find it to be interesting and useful, please leave a comment.

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Fall in love with Cordoba – Spain

We visited Spain in September 2017. It was a trip that was long in the making in my head and heart so it turned out to be extra special that I could share it with my husband.

Our first day in Spain

Spanish history is rich with Islamic influence and I was looking forward to visiting historic sites where I could see first hand what has been left of Islam in this European country.

We decided to spend much of our planned visit, in Andalusia, an autonomous community in the south of Spain. Andalusia territory is divided into eight provinces of which Cordoba, Granada, Malaga and Seville are the most popular for tourist visits.

On this visit we spent time in Cordoba and Granada. I fell in love with Cordoba from the moment I breathed its air and smelled its orange fragrance drifting from the many orange trees that lines their walkways and streets.

Orange trees on the streets in Cordoba

We arrived in Cordoba on the Monday, after we had spent the weekend in Madrid. The train ride from Madrid Atocha station to Cordoba takes a little over two hours depending on the route you choose.

Cordoba Train Station

I remember arriving at Cordoba station not sure about what to expect. At first glance it looks like any other European town but as you walk further from the train station into the centre of Cordoba, you notice the change in the architecture of the buildings from modern to medieval Roman with a hint of Moorish influence.

On our walk from the Station to our Hotel

The city of Cordoba was a Roman settlement until it was invaded and conquered by the Umayyad Caliphate in the eighth century. There is a distinct visibility of Islamic remnants in this quaint town.

In another blog I will tell you more about some must-do’s in Cordoba, in this blog I want to draw your attention to the main attraction :

Mosque–Cathedral of Córdoba

The Great Mosque of Cordoba – La Mezquita- was built in 786 and expanded several times until the Christian Reconquesta when a Cathedral was built right in the centre of the mosque area. Most Spanish people still refer to it as the Mezquita, but its official name is now the Mosque-Cathedral.

As you walk through the entrance to this magnificent architectural gem, you step into a courtyard, Patio De Los Naranjos, which has at its centre a fountain, an orange grove with a covered walkway circling the Mosque.

Courtyard of Mezquita with its orange grove

To the right you will see the foundation of a minaret which has now been converted into a bell tower.

The Minarat in the background, now converted into a bell tower

A bitter-sweet reminder of a time when the call to prayer was heard throughout the Iberian Peninsula. Now standing in this wide expansive courtyard, the one thing that is deafeningly missing, in Cordoba and most of Spain, is the Muslim call to prayer.

The courtyard is large and spacious with pathways leading you to huge doors. Step through the Puerta de la Palmas (the Door of Palms) and you find yourself standing in a large Prayer Hall where more than 850 red and white columned arches rise above you.

856 red & white columned arches in Mezquita – Cordoba

From this view it’s hard to imagine that this is anything other than what it was built to be, a Mosque, but as you walk deeper into the Prayer Hall, you are suddenly surprised to see right there in the centre, squats a Renaissance Cathedral dating back to the early sixteenth century.

Cathedral in centre of Mezquita

Tourist are mulling around and one is suddenly struck by the mixed emotions that both Muslim and Christians visiting here must be feeling. Here is an example of two worshipping places existing within each other and maintaining its individual architectural style under one roof. It’s a moment to reflect and the space lends itself for deep reflection.

Even with the Cathedral towering in the centre of this Mosque, the horseshoe style arched Mihrab with it’s dazzling Dome remains in intact as a testament to the many sermons and prayers that must have reverberated within these walls in a time long ago.

Mihrab with its dazzling Dome

My visit to the Mezquita left me feeling a sense of sadness and wonder. Sad to see that the prayer hall has now become a place where tourist stand in awe of the brilliant architecture instead of a place where Muslims gather to complete their daily prayers. Yet I stare in wonder at the ingenuity of the architects who have over a period of hundreds of years, managed to maintain all of the Islamic Architecture that this Mosque has to offer, whilst placing a Cathedral at it’s core.

Notice the contrast – Moorish arch filled with Roman/Christian architecture

The Mezquita is open for guided tours or individual tourist at a cost of 10 Euros from 10am. The courtyard area is free for you to roam around in but if you want to see the Mosque and Cathedral area, you will have to pay the entrance fee.

Travel Tip: Early morning between 8.30am and 9.30am individual tourist are allowed to enter for free while workers are cleaning. We visited during this time and found it to be a good time for deep reflection and to take in the energy of spiritual awareness and peace that is present in the early morning silence of the Mosque-Cathedral.